Problem     Possible Cause      Troubleshooting/Solution     Host PC does not communicate with primary control board.     Assuming that the control box is powered on and the host PC is connected to the control box via USB cable, the Virtual COM Port drivers may not be installed correctly.     

If Windows does not automatically install them, download and install drivers from http://www.ftdichip.com/Drivers/VCP.htm. Open the Device Manager and check to see if any new devices appear when the control box and PC are connected via USB cable - the primary control board may appear as a USB Serial Converter or a mouse instead of a COM port. If this is the case, right click on the device and navigate through the tabs to the "Load VCP" checkbox which should override the normal driver functions and allow it to function as a Virtual COM Port. 

 

Photodiode permanently outputs a certain low voltage (e.g. 200 mV) or no voltage and does not respond to changes in UV intensity. 

If UV light is present (confirm visually, wearing appropriate eye protection) the Vout pin (0-5VDC) likely has been accidentally connected to 24VDC Vsupply. This treatment will destroy the photodiode. Unfortunately it is relatively easy to accidentally plug the cable in the wrong way even with the half-circle "lip" between pins 1 and 2 on the sensor. 

 

 Order a replacement from manufacturer (http://sglux.de/en/).

 Lamps won't turn on.      One or both of the lamp filaments are dead.  With the electronic box powered off,  remove the lamp sockets connected to each lamp one at a time, making note of the orientation prior to removal. One filament is on the far end of the lamp (relative to the 4 electrical pins; connected via two white wires outside the quartz housing) and one is on the near end of the lamp. 

Measure the electrical continuity of the two pins connected to each of the two filaments on each lamp. If both filaments is continuous, the lamp is OK. If one or both filaments are not continuous, the lamp needs to be replaced.    The relay(s) supplying AC power to ballast(s) are open.  In the PAMcontrols software, toggle the transistor controls on/off and listen for a clicking sound indicating that the relay is opening/closing. If you don't hear this, the relay may not be receiving 24V or the onboard fuse may have blown. Contact ARI for further troubleshooting.

Lamps won't turn on because pins or sockets on the lamp cable connectors have been pushed in and are not making good electrical contact:

Lamp Cable Pins
Lamp Cable Pins
Front Panel Connector Sockets (2 are pushed in)
Front Panel Connector Sockets (2 are pushed in)

Visually inspect the male pins on the lamp cables and the female sockets on the front panel connectors.

  • If male pin(s) are pushed in, pull them out carefully with a pair of tweezers or needle-nose pliers. 
  • If female socket(s) are pushed in, 
    • Turn off the control box. 
    • Unplug any and all cabling from the box (especially the AC cord)
    • Undo the bolts that hold the front of the box to the frame using a 5/32" Allen/ball head driver
    • Remove the box from the frame
    • Remove the Phillips head 6-32 screws on the top of the box to slide off the lid
    • Inspect the front panel ballast connectors and identify the "pushed in" sockets. 
    • With a pair of tweezers or pliers GENTLY push the sockets FULLY back inside of the connector (there is usually a discreet snapping sound when they successfully lock in place, but it's also OK to not hear it) 
    • Take a set of ballast cabling and try to mate the cable again to the front panel connectors and check to see if you are still able to push the sockets into the connector
    • If successful, Replace the lid of the box, slide the box back into the rack, bolt the front of the box to the frame, then replace all of the cabling
  • Apply power to the box and retest lamps as needed.